Today I feel I really can't hold any longer. Since ELAL lost my baggage on 20th, Feb from London to Tel Aviv, I've contacted them for so many times. But still, no body replies and there is no hope I can see. Here is the letter I wrote to them today. If you are thinking about flying to Israel, hope my bad experience will help you to choose air companies.
To those who may concerned,
It’s my fourth time I contact you for my lost baggage in 20th Feb, ELAL airline from London to Tel Aviv. More than one month has past and I still can’t receive a word from you. So I hope you can understand my angry when I’m writing this letter.
On 20th, Feb, I took ElAl Y0216 from London to Tel Aviv. At check-in, some security people took my suitcase, then gave me the boarding pass and told me that I can go --they will take charge of my suitcase. I didn’t bring anything forbidden and nobody told me that they took things out.
After I arrived at my home in Tel Aviv, open my suitcase, I found that all the gifts I bought for my family and friends had gone. Nice perfumes, skin cream, cosmetics, all disappeared. And my clay cup was broken. THEY ARE IN MY SUITCASE, NOT HANDBAG. YOU CAN’T TAKE THEM OUT FROM MY SUITCASE.
What happened later is really interesting. I called baggage claim department, the lady told me to send you a letter. So I download the form and did exactly what I should do, and then wait. A whole month past and I didn’t even receive an E-mail from you. Don’t mention a “sorry”.
So, last weekend, I went to your office on Ben Yehuda Street. I told the lady there what happened; she gave me another phone number. The lady who answered the phone told me you have sent me a letter 3 days ago. I told her I never received anything. Then a gentle man answered the phone, he said he sent me an email. I told him I never received email neither. He said he will send it again and what I need to do is waiting again.
Unfortunately I don’t have much time left in Israel. And Unfortunately I check both my email and mail box everyday but still no letter comes from you. I’d say this very bad experience with your company has already changed my good impression with ElAl. I don’t think I would choose ELAL again and my friends agree with me. As a journalist, perhaps I need to tell more readers to be careful.
I understand that security check is very necessary in Israel. But if you lose or break a passenger’s property, you’d better say sorry and gave compensation as soon as possible. What makes me feel bad is that it seems you never want to solve the problem; you just ask passengers to make one phone call, and another phone call, and endless different phone call…Until the passenger give up.
I’m still waiting for an ending for this story. I hope this letter will help. Other wise I’d have to go to your office again and I’d like to talk to the manager.
What I want is just my stuff back, if they’ve already lost, I want your compensation ASAP.
Anyway, I still like Israel, like Tel Aviv, like people I meet here.
Best wishes,
Mar 22, 2009
5 days in Jordan--back to Jerusalem
10, March, 2009 back to Jerusalem
By Judita
It was our last day in Jordan. Oh no! We planned to wake up earlier but actually as always we were so relaxed, had nice breakfast (well, it became boring after all time in hostel), paid our almost last money and went out. We went to post office to send postcards. Surprisingly, stamps were expensive and they even didn’t put real ones. Only some stickers. Boo… Then we tried to catch taxi to bus station, it took long time and the driver again asked too much. But well, what can we do… Our small bus to Madaba was very lousy, it went so slow. But on the other hand, we could see huge part of Amman. We went through some fancy districts with Sheraton, Marriot etc. hotels and so on. Part of people in bus was students. I have to tell that I haven’t seen almost any cute guy guys in Jordan, but finally in that lousy bus I saw one or two J We went through green fields, landscape is different there. In fact, Jordan has many different areas: desert, mountains, valleys and plain fields. We arrived to Madaba – I expected it to be tourist place like Petra because of mosaic stuff but actually it was a bit ugly city, dirty, noisy with some grilled chickens. But we didn’t have any money left! What a pity! Nobody spoke English and we had trouble to find that famous church. While wandering in the streets Joe found shop that sells beer – well, he got some – it’s not 100% Jordanian, because it is Amstel – but it was made in Jordan! Yes! We found one church but it wasn’t right one. After visiting it we went to another one. On the way we saw beautiful mosque too. So we entered finally that church and finally after so long time I saw it! But well, actually, I expected so much that when I saw it – it is just mosaic! Nice and huge and old but for me it looked even better in postcards than real. We didn’t spend too much time because we had to get to Israel. I have to admit: first time I didn’t want to go back to Israel. Amman is huge, noisy, crowded and dirty in some places (although there are a lot of fancy neighbourhoods), but in a way it is very relaxing and easy. Or maybe just because we were tourists… But people are not annoying, they even don’t care about you, at least it seems so. And all that good food. Sweets and Turkish coffee for 250 piastre in the morning in paper “cappuccino“ cup.
Anyway, we had to catch taxi to Mt. Nebus & border. It is so annoying! But no taxi driver can ruin my good feelings about Jordan. We got one and we went to Mt. Nebus. Very beautiful view, more mosaics, sun and Jerusalem feeling (soon). After mountain we got to the border. King (in picture) told “goodbye” to us and we entered border crossing territory. It wasn’t so easy, because we had to pay border tax and so on, they totally robbed us. Good, we had sweets, so we were more relaxed, although still very angry. We crossed border – finally Israel – guy with kippah and so on. At the border check point they took pictures of us and fingerprints. Walla – now we are in database forever. We also had to enter to one machine with blowing wind. Drugs control maybe?.. But we didn’t have any. Only beer. By the way, I forgot to mention that last night me and Joe were looking for Jordanian beer but could not find any (people told, it’s because of prophet Mahomet birthday). But then we got non-alcohol beer, made in Dubai. That’s exotic! And we had famous Palestinian juice (Jews) – really good (carrot + orange). So after all checking we were in Israel, or in fact, in West Bank. (I have to tell the truth: when I entered bathroom there with toilet paper, clean and nice, I had a thought: “I still like Israel in a way”...) Again terribly expensive sherut drivers (how can they add money for bags?!). So we took this sherut and reached Jerusalem. Home feeling indeed! Good dinner in Arab restaurant in Old Town, bus to home. Tel Aviv is so American/European/West – bus driver listens to radio; it plays Rihanna, no ethnic/Arabic music, malls, Purim costumes. So familiar. On the other hand, I miss this simplicity of Amman, different smells, Arabic writings on the buildings, king’s pictures and real Middle East atmosphere. More more more!
By Wing
Today is our last day in Jordan. We planned to rush to Madaba to see the St. George's church with a famous mosaic map on the ground, and catch taxi there to Mt. Nebo and then cross the border back to Jerusalem.
After we had breakfast as much as we could as usual, we set off to post office. I had 5 post cards, Judita had 3. It cost us 0.8 JD for each postcard--what a big sum of money! That made us very carefully and nervous when we chose which mail box we should throw our money to.
Though we felt more familiar with Amman, the fact is you can never figure out this huge city. We failed to get a local bus again, and had to take a taxi to Abdili bus station. I don't have any memory on bus--for me, just get on, close eyes, someone wakes me up, open eyes, get off, that's it.
Madaba is a small town with dusty road, tiny shops and dirty restaurants. Nobody speaks English, and there is no sign on the streets. Jordanian tour departments always want foreign tourists to pass their geography exam before they can see the attractions. We walked up a steep uphill, and down a steep downhill, after we went into another church by mistake, we finally found the right church--the mosaic map on it's ground is the oldest one of Middle East. I never knew that people use mosaic to make map before, I only knew that my grandma use them as a nice house decoration--especially in bathroom.
We bargained an extremely expensive taxi from 30JD to 15JD, which was still expensive. We rushed to Mt.Nebo, where Moses died at 120 years old. The view was wonderful. I can see Dead Sea like blue glass, behind the big shadow given by clouds on the land.
The border is in desert. We had our passport checked for countless times, and also had our money robbed by border officers again. In the Israeli side, we were taken to all kinds of high-tech equipment to make sure we were innocent. When we back to Damascus Gate, Jerusalem, all I and Judita thought was good chicken. We had our happy hour on food in a nice restaurant in Old City, but poor Joe, he is a vegetarian and always has to eat like a rabbit. I think I will be a monk for my next life, which can only eat vegetables like Joe or rabbits, so I should eat as much meat as I want in my present life.
Our Jordan trip was perfect and we were a perfect team. I don't know who/what Judita and Joe will be for their next life, anyway, I hope I will meet them again, after 100 years.
By Judita
It was our last day in Jordan. Oh no! We planned to wake up earlier but actually as always we were so relaxed, had nice breakfast (well, it became boring after all time in hostel), paid our almost last money and went out. We went to post office to send postcards. Surprisingly, stamps were expensive and they even didn’t put real ones. Only some stickers. Boo… Then we tried to catch taxi to bus station, it took long time and the driver again asked too much. But well, what can we do… Our small bus to Madaba was very lousy, it went so slow. But on the other hand, we could see huge part of Amman. We went through some fancy districts with Sheraton, Marriot etc. hotels and so on. Part of people in bus was students. I have to tell that I haven’t seen almost any cute guy guys in Jordan, but finally in that lousy bus I saw one or two J We went through green fields, landscape is different there. In fact, Jordan has many different areas: desert, mountains, valleys and plain fields. We arrived to Madaba – I expected it to be tourist place like Petra because of mosaic stuff but actually it was a bit ugly city, dirty, noisy with some grilled chickens. But we didn’t have any money left! What a pity! Nobody spoke English and we had trouble to find that famous church. While wandering in the streets Joe found shop that sells beer – well, he got some – it’s not 100% Jordanian, because it is Amstel – but it was made in Jordan! Yes! We found one church but it wasn’t right one. After visiting it we went to another one. On the way we saw beautiful mosque too. So we entered finally that church and finally after so long time I saw it! But well, actually, I expected so much that when I saw it – it is just mosaic! Nice and huge and old but for me it looked even better in postcards than real. We didn’t spend too much time because we had to get to Israel. I have to admit: first time I didn’t want to go back to Israel. Amman is huge, noisy, crowded and dirty in some places (although there are a lot of fancy neighbourhoods), but in a way it is very relaxing and easy. Or maybe just because we were tourists… But people are not annoying, they even don’t care about you, at least it seems so. And all that good food. Sweets and Turkish coffee for 250 piastre in the morning in paper “cappuccino“ cup.
Anyway, we had to catch taxi to Mt. Nebus & border. It is so annoying! But no taxi driver can ruin my good feelings about Jordan. We got one and we went to Mt. Nebus. Very beautiful view, more mosaics, sun and Jerusalem feeling (soon). After mountain we got to the border. King (in picture) told “goodbye” to us and we entered border crossing territory. It wasn’t so easy, because we had to pay border tax and so on, they totally robbed us. Good, we had sweets, so we were more relaxed, although still very angry. We crossed border – finally Israel – guy with kippah and so on. At the border check point they took pictures of us and fingerprints. Walla – now we are in database forever. We also had to enter to one machine with blowing wind. Drugs control maybe?.. But we didn’t have any. Only beer. By the way, I forgot to mention that last night me and Joe were looking for Jordanian beer but could not find any (people told, it’s because of prophet Mahomet birthday). But then we got non-alcohol beer, made in Dubai. That’s exotic! And we had famous Palestinian juice (Jews) – really good (carrot + orange). So after all checking we were in Israel, or in fact, in West Bank. (I have to tell the truth: when I entered bathroom there with toilet paper, clean and nice, I had a thought: “I still like Israel in a way”...) Again terribly expensive sherut drivers (how can they add money for bags?!). So we took this sherut and reached Jerusalem. Home feeling indeed! Good dinner in Arab restaurant in Old Town, bus to home. Tel Aviv is so American/European/West – bus driver listens to radio; it plays Rihanna, no ethnic/Arabic music, malls, Purim costumes. So familiar. On the other hand, I miss this simplicity of Amman, different smells, Arabic writings on the buildings, king’s pictures and real Middle East atmosphere. More more more!
By Wing
Today is our last day in Jordan. We planned to rush to Madaba to see the St. George's church with a famous mosaic map on the ground, and catch taxi there to Mt. Nebo and then cross the border back to Jerusalem.
After we had breakfast as much as we could as usual, we set off to post office. I had 5 post cards, Judita had 3. It cost us 0.8 JD for each postcard--what a big sum of money! That made us very carefully and nervous when we chose which mail box we should throw our money to.
Though we felt more familiar with Amman, the fact is you can never figure out this huge city. We failed to get a local bus again, and had to take a taxi to Abdili bus station. I don't have any memory on bus--for me, just get on, close eyes, someone wakes me up, open eyes, get off, that's it.
Madaba is a small town with dusty road, tiny shops and dirty restaurants. Nobody speaks English, and there is no sign on the streets. Jordanian tour departments always want foreign tourists to pass their geography exam before they can see the attractions. We walked up a steep uphill, and down a steep downhill, after we went into another church by mistake, we finally found the right church--the mosaic map on it's ground is the oldest one of Middle East. I never knew that people use mosaic to make map before, I only knew that my grandma use them as a nice house decoration--especially in bathroom.
We bargained an extremely expensive taxi from 30JD to 15JD, which was still expensive. We rushed to Mt.Nebo, where Moses died at 120 years old. The view was wonderful. I can see Dead Sea like blue glass, behind the big shadow given by clouds on the land.
The border is in desert. We had our passport checked for countless times, and also had our money robbed by border officers again. In the Israeli side, we were taken to all kinds of high-tech equipment to make sure we were innocent. When we back to Damascus Gate, Jerusalem, all I and Judita thought was good chicken. We had our happy hour on food in a nice restaurant in Old City, but poor Joe, he is a vegetarian and always has to eat like a rabbit. I think I will be a monk for my next life, which can only eat vegetables like Joe or rabbits, so I should eat as much meat as I want in my present life.
Our Jordan trip was perfect and we were a perfect team. I don't know who/what Judita and Joe will be for their next life, anyway, I hope I will meet them again, after 100 years.
5 days in Jordan--Amman
09, March, 2009 Amman
By Wing
Today is our last day in Amman. We want to see the city as much as possible. Last night we were so full that even this morning we don't feel hungry. What I eat for breakfast is only half of yesterday. So does Judita. What a pity.
There are so many things need to see in Amman, which all open and close at different time. It's not easy to make a perfect schedule. We went to Rome Theatre first because everyone says it's the place you have to see in Amman. Actually, it's just another ruins of ancient Rome. Compared to Jerash, this theatre is not that amazing. However, for me, theatres are always attractive. It's a different feeling when people are standing on a stage facing 7000 stone seats, I think, you feel the power of creative art. I do like them.
There are 2 small but very interesting museums at both wings of the stage. They are not like the fancy top-end British museums, but 3 or 4 rooms display Bedouin customs, tools and jewelry, which are very nice and elegant.
After theater, we looked for the citadel nearby. It's not far away but at the top of hill. We climbed up steep stairs in garbage yard, which should be the special way built by Jordan government for tourists. It is a ruins of Byzantine. It's fine, but the archaeology museum sucks. The funny thing was we escaped tickets by accident, so we saved 2 JD without realizing it. Judita said we should go to a nice restaurant and have some nice chilly chicken for dinner. I totally agreed with her. Anyway, the citadel doesn't worth 2JD.
It seems we got better know about Amman. We managed our way to walk to King-Abdullah Mosque, instead of taking taxi. This Mosque with a blue dome is huge and cost a lot to build. In the small museum at the entrance, there is a short introduction of the King's family. Every time the King's name mentioned, it will begin with "his Majesty", and followed by "may Allah bless him health" or something like that. I couldn't help laughing, but the security guy was very close to us and watched us all the time with a stone-like face. I looked at Judita, I thought she was doing her best to pretend a stone-like face, so, I did my best to do the same thing, too.
Before entering the Mosque, they put me and Judita in a long, totally black gown, with a hood to cover our guilty hair. Joe didn't have to because he is lucky enough to be a man. I think the gown looks like a nice pajama, but absolutely too long for me. I stepped on it several times when I climbed the stairs, almost fell down--that would be funny and Allah would for sure be mad on me.
The huge hall is delicate with bright diamond lights hung from the domed ceiling. We were on our knees quietly while some Muslims were praying. I felt totally different when I wearing this black pajama. I didn't dare to speak normally (only whisper), nor did I dare to look at people's eyes(always looked at my feet instead)--I felt the world changed only because this black pajama.
It took us a long time to find the National Gallery. However, it was closed because today is the birthday of some prophets. Actually it is a very tinny gallery located in the richest neighbourhood near a park, more like a rich man's private collection than a "national" gallery. It seems the King(may Allah bless his health) is more mercy on Mosque than Fine Arts. I don't know whether there are common people coming here. Compared to the dirty crowded downtown, this neighbourhood is a different world--private house, clean street, quiet park, no horns, no smoking men on the street, small shops have all kinds of western drinks and snacks, even bus stations have signs with name and number.
It was 3pm when we realized that we were starving. We broke into an Indian restaurant and decided to eat loads of spicy food. During our journey, we never spent money on lunch(breakfast was included in hostel fee), so we can save enough money for a good dinner everyday. I think it's a brilliant idea. The food was very nice and I ate my chicken like a wolf. I'm lucky with Judita and Joe, with whom I feel so relax that never have to pretend a "lady".
We caught a cab back to King Hussein Mosque Souq. Both I and Judita were candy fans. We bought bags of chocolate and sweets. Those sweets with fruits, flowers and nuts were so fancy. I ran out all my money on them. Oh no!
By Wing
Today is our last day in Amman. We want to see the city as much as possible. Last night we were so full that even this morning we don't feel hungry. What I eat for breakfast is only half of yesterday. So does Judita. What a pity.
There are so many things need to see in Amman, which all open and close at different time. It's not easy to make a perfect schedule. We went to Rome Theatre first because everyone says it's the place you have to see in Amman. Actually, it's just another ruins of ancient Rome. Compared to Jerash, this theatre is not that amazing. However, for me, theatres are always attractive. It's a different feeling when people are standing on a stage facing 7000 stone seats, I think, you feel the power of creative art. I do like them.
There are 2 small but very interesting museums at both wings of the stage. They are not like the fancy top-end British museums, but 3 or 4 rooms display Bedouin customs, tools and jewelry, which are very nice and elegant.
After theater, we looked for the citadel nearby. It's not far away but at the top of hill. We climbed up steep stairs in garbage yard, which should be the special way built by Jordan government for tourists. It is a ruins of Byzantine. It's fine, but the archaeology museum sucks. The funny thing was we escaped tickets by accident, so we saved 2 JD without realizing it. Judita said we should go to a nice restaurant and have some nice chilly chicken for dinner. I totally agreed with her. Anyway, the citadel doesn't worth 2JD.
It seems we got better know about Amman. We managed our way to walk to King-Abdullah Mosque, instead of taking taxi. This Mosque with a blue dome is huge and cost a lot to build. In the small museum at the entrance, there is a short introduction of the King's family. Every time the King's name mentioned, it will begin with "his Majesty", and followed by "may Allah bless him health" or something like that. I couldn't help laughing, but the security guy was very close to us and watched us all the time with a stone-like face. I looked at Judita, I thought she was doing her best to pretend a stone-like face, so, I did my best to do the same thing, too.
Before entering the Mosque, they put me and Judita in a long, totally black gown, with a hood to cover our guilty hair. Joe didn't have to because he is lucky enough to be a man. I think the gown looks like a nice pajama, but absolutely too long for me. I stepped on it several times when I climbed the stairs, almost fell down--that would be funny and Allah would for sure be mad on me.
The huge hall is delicate with bright diamond lights hung from the domed ceiling. We were on our knees quietly while some Muslims were praying. I felt totally different when I wearing this black pajama. I didn't dare to speak normally (only whisper), nor did I dare to look at people's eyes(always looked at my feet instead)--I felt the world changed only because this black pajama.
It took us a long time to find the National Gallery. However, it was closed because today is the birthday of some prophets. Actually it is a very tinny gallery located in the richest neighbourhood near a park, more like a rich man's private collection than a "national" gallery. It seems the King(may Allah bless his health) is more mercy on Mosque than Fine Arts. I don't know whether there are common people coming here. Compared to the dirty crowded downtown, this neighbourhood is a different world--private house, clean street, quiet park, no horns, no smoking men on the street, small shops have all kinds of western drinks and snacks, even bus stations have signs with name and number.
It was 3pm when we realized that we were starving. We broke into an Indian restaurant and decided to eat loads of spicy food. During our journey, we never spent money on lunch(breakfast was included in hostel fee), so we can save enough money for a good dinner everyday. I think it's a brilliant idea. The food was very nice and I ate my chicken like a wolf. I'm lucky with Judita and Joe, with whom I feel so relax that never have to pretend a "lady".
We caught a cab back to King Hussein Mosque Souq. Both I and Judita were candy fans. We bought bags of chocolate and sweets. Those sweets with fruits, flowers and nuts were so fancy. I ran out all my money on them. Oh no!
5 days in Jordan--Jerash
08,March,2009 Jerash
by Judita
So we are sitting now in Jafra (Gafra/Jaffra) bar/pub (?). It’s my turn to write. Joe just gave me and Wing smoking instructions. The place is really cute, kind of meeting spot for different people. Nargilah, drinks and talks about life. You even can sit down on sofas and read books. But! No alcohol! Anyway, coffee seems good and fruit – mix – cocktail is marvelous. I feel like in one of the main and hottest spots in young people’ Amman. We should talk about serious/smart/intellectual stuff, but well..
Today we went to Jerash, ancient Roman city. It was nice experience to get there – Wing asked one guy how to get to bus station and he helped us to find taxi etc. then we got local bus to Jerash. No tourists-nice! The moment we got from bus and went to city was also without tourists. When we came back, it was so difficult to find places we needed. Amman is so huge, no signs, no directions. I still didn’t figure out its whole picture. We saw Blue Mosque and then we walked back to hostel. In one street we heard thousand offers to go to Damascus. Shitty Israel stamp in our passports…
Being here I feel really close to “mysterious” Middle East. There are many shops/hotels/companies like – Iraqi airways; Riyadh hotel/Baghdad hotel and so on. Israel’s “middle easterness” looks so faked now… (I am waiting trip to West Bank – how it will be there). In fact, we didn’t see anything famous in Amman yet, but well, maybe tomorrow. Today we enjoyed Jerash which is not so far from Syria (around 50 km). And also delicious food in unknown place, recommended by funny man who (according to him) works in Aquaba and has Lithuanian girlfriend (haha). Anyway, food was great, later Joe danced Arabic dances in hostel’s room; I and Wing enjoyed it a lot.
My mind is scattered like Middle East, it went away with nargilah smoke… This place is very mixed: locals, tourists, families, girls with covered hair and girls with no covering; guys with latest fashion shoes and student look and guys in traditional dresses.
Amman is weird. Sometimes we go to the same street 10 times and can’t recognize it – it’s the same. All places look similar – shops, mosques, churches, buildings (well, except burnt cinema, maybe…)
by Wing
Jerash is an ancient Roman city ruins. It is the very right time to come because green grass and little yellow flowers make the huge old gray stone columns, temples, churches and theatres a very nice scene. Both historical and vivid.
When we stopped at a gorgeous temple ruins, I felt magic because it looks exactly the same as what C.S.Lewis wrote in his book The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian. The four kids didn't know that hundreds of years had passed since they left Narnia. They sat on the ground of a palace ruins wondering where they were without noticing that it was there palace long time ago. Here, in Jerash, at the corner of the ruined stone temple, is a wooden door also--a treasure chamber is hidden behind?
We decided to have lunch there. Actually, that's a really bad decision. As a famous temple, so many tourists holding cameras were coming all the time. I felt sorry for them, probably they will have to use photo-shop to remove us and our food from their travel pictures--"what stupid kids!" They might think.
At night, after a cheap but great dinner--bread with lamb in a local restaurant, we made up our mind to go to Hussein Cinema, the only cinema in downtown. It would be pretty funny to see Brad Pitt speak Arabic in a Jordan cinema. It was my suggestion but to my big surprise, it was not a cinema at all. An old building looks like just be burnt by a fire, at the back of street without any lights or signs, that's it. Beyond imagination. After a while, some Arabic men came, they opened the door, turned on the light, and welcomed us. I saw there were stairs inside, and every inch of the wall was covered by movie posters, from 1990s' to the latest Bolt.
"We have Jackie Chen, Iron Man." He spoke in Arabish, "1JD each person.” I guess we were the audiences and we gave up our plan of Brad Pitt. It's the most special cinema I've ever been--really wonderful.
by Judita
So we are sitting now in Jafra (Gafra/Jaffra) bar/pub (?). It’s my turn to write. Joe just gave me and Wing smoking instructions. The place is really cute, kind of meeting spot for different people. Nargilah, drinks and talks about life. You even can sit down on sofas and read books. But! No alcohol! Anyway, coffee seems good and fruit – mix – cocktail is marvelous. I feel like in one of the main and hottest spots in young people’ Amman. We should talk about serious/smart/intellectual stuff, but well..
Today we went to Jerash, ancient Roman city. It was nice experience to get there – Wing asked one guy how to get to bus station and he helped us to find taxi etc. then we got local bus to Jerash. No tourists-nice! The moment we got from bus and went to city was also without tourists. When we came back, it was so difficult to find places we needed. Amman is so huge, no signs, no directions. I still didn’t figure out its whole picture. We saw Blue Mosque and then we walked back to hostel. In one street we heard thousand offers to go to Damascus. Shitty Israel stamp in our passports…
Being here I feel really close to “mysterious” Middle East. There are many shops/hotels/companies like – Iraqi airways; Riyadh hotel/Baghdad hotel and so on. Israel’s “middle easterness” looks so faked now… (I am waiting trip to West Bank – how it will be there). In fact, we didn’t see anything famous in Amman yet, but well, maybe tomorrow. Today we enjoyed Jerash which is not so far from Syria (around 50 km). And also delicious food in unknown place, recommended by funny man who (according to him) works in Aquaba and has Lithuanian girlfriend (haha). Anyway, food was great, later Joe danced Arabic dances in hostel’s room; I and Wing enjoyed it a lot.
My mind is scattered like Middle East, it went away with nargilah smoke… This place is very mixed: locals, tourists, families, girls with covered hair and girls with no covering; guys with latest fashion shoes and student look and guys in traditional dresses.
Amman is weird. Sometimes we go to the same street 10 times and can’t recognize it – it’s the same. All places look similar – shops, mosques, churches, buildings (well, except burnt cinema, maybe…)
by Wing
Jerash is an ancient Roman city ruins. It is the very right time to come because green grass and little yellow flowers make the huge old gray stone columns, temples, churches and theatres a very nice scene. Both historical and vivid.
When we stopped at a gorgeous temple ruins, I felt magic because it looks exactly the same as what C.S.Lewis wrote in his book The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian. The four kids didn't know that hundreds of years had passed since they left Narnia. They sat on the ground of a palace ruins wondering where they were without noticing that it was there palace long time ago. Here, in Jerash, at the corner of the ruined stone temple, is a wooden door also--a treasure chamber is hidden behind?
We decided to have lunch there. Actually, that's a really bad decision. As a famous temple, so many tourists holding cameras were coming all the time. I felt sorry for them, probably they will have to use photo-shop to remove us and our food from their travel pictures--"what stupid kids!" They might think.
At night, after a cheap but great dinner--bread with lamb in a local restaurant, we made up our mind to go to Hussein Cinema, the only cinema in downtown. It would be pretty funny to see Brad Pitt speak Arabic in a Jordan cinema. It was my suggestion but to my big surprise, it was not a cinema at all. An old building looks like just be burnt by a fire, at the back of street without any lights or signs, that's it. Beyond imagination. After a while, some Arabic men came, they opened the door, turned on the light, and welcomed us. I saw there were stairs inside, and every inch of the wall was covered by movie posters, from 1990s' to the latest Bolt.
"We have Jackie Chen, Iron Man." He spoke in Arabish, "1JD each person.” I guess we were the audiences and we gave up our plan of Brad Pitt. It's the most special cinema I've ever been--really wonderful.
5 days in Jordan--Petra
06,March,2009 Petra
by Wing
We three spent half an hour on making the decision of going to Jordan, now, tonight. It was 4 or 5 in afternoon, we were talking about Jordan on the roof of our dorms in Tel Aviv, Israel, with a Jordan map from National Geography and a Lonely Planet guide book. Only Judita, my roommate from Lithuania, had been to Jordan before. She is a blond girl, a young writer, an interesting traveller who has many adventure experience in Middle East during the last 4 years. Neither I nor Joe had been to any other country except Israel since we began our MA study in Tel Aviv University--both of us spent all day on our hopeless Hebrew homework. He came from Washington States and I came from Beijing, China.
So, we'll write our travel dairy in turns, I(Wing)--Joe--Judita.
We rushed down the roof and went back to pack quickly. At night, We took No.27 bus at the opposite street of the university to go to old bus station, then waited for the bus to Elat, a small city at the south of Israel, where the Jordan border was. There were many soldiers waiting at the bus station, and we were dragging our bags and hugging our food--pita, rabbit salad, boiled eggs--like refugees. Judita and Joe were talking excitedly while I was sleeping fast from the very beginning. During the 5 hours on bus to Elat, I was still asleep.
It was about 6 in the morning and Elat was so dark and cold. The Red Sea looks like black ink, with orange lights blinking from the other side. We looked for a warm nice cafe for a long time but failed, at last we had to eat our breakfast at the chill beach. A weird guy suddenly appeared, without even looking at Judita or me, he only staring at Joe, excited, and talked to him so warmly. When we finally sit down at a breakfast cafe, Joe said that the guy must be gay. The shopkeeper looked at us angrily--not because we were laughing, but for what we ordered was only the cheapest coffee.
We paid a lot to cross the border and even more for the taxi to Petra. In the middle of the day, finally we were in Petra, the most famous ancient city in Jordan. We stayed in Petra Gate Hostel, 9JD(about $13) per person/night. The room was clean and people were friendly and helpful. We also had private bathroom and free breakfast.
What happened at the border was something I should not forget to mention. I almost failed to pass. "People from China, Romania, Columbia all need visa." The officer said when he gave back my passport. I was a little mad on him. China is not a rich or developed country, but not the same as those two countries at least. However, things turned to a happy way after I showed them my student ID card and told them I really don't know visa is required for Jordan. They took me to the chief officer's office. He was very nice and gave me a visa stamp without asking me any questions. "Welcome to Jordan." He said. Even I myself couldn't believe it.
There were many Arabic taxi drivers waiting at the other side of the border as usual. "They will tell you there is no bus to Aqaba." Judita said," they just want to cheat you to take taxi." She was very right that just after we crossed the border, an Arabic driver came to us:"There is no bus to Aqaba today, you have to take our taxi."
Petra is a totally tourists' place, but I still recommend it strongly. "If you only go to one place in Jordan, you'd go to Petra." That's what the advertisement says. It's a huge area with old city ruins and nature views for people to explore by foot or "taxi"--camels. Those ancient ruins, unlike roman style, are very unique with a heavy atmosphere of religion and mystery. I like the tombs, temples, carvings, huge red rock valley, and the feeling of desert. Everything made me felt that we were in a great adventure story, like Indiana Jones.
At the end of hiking, there were 800 steps up to the top of the hill which was called "sacrifice place" and "the end of the world". When we finally got there, it was late in the afternoon and we were almost only half alive. However, it's quite worth it .We laid down on the big stone of the mountain, pretend to take a nap at "the end of the world"--so close to the sky, so quite and clean.
On our way back, some Bedouin friends invited us for tea and Arabic smoke. They were very warm and hospitalized people. We sat down and talked for a while. I felt so familiar with my experience in Tibet. Bedouins and Tibetans have very similar values. Bedouins say "mountains never meet, friends never apart", and Tibetans say "Money, just paper; alcohol, just water". And Bedouins also say "strong like desert, soft like sand, quiet like wind".
It was deep dark when we said goodbye to them. Moon was shinning brilliantly on the sky while no one except us were walking among the tombs, rocks and temples. The black shadows of big rocks were in some strange shapes that brought a creepy feeling. The valley was deadly quite when suddenly some weird cats rushed towards us and followed us for a long way.
We were terribly tired and I was starving to death. Luckily we were not spoiled kids and finally made our way back to hostel. The Arabic restaurant nearby was wonderful that humus with pita only cost 1JD, and my Arabic BBQ chicken with bread and salad cost 5. I'm happy because I think here is the real Middle East, Tel Aviv is just a luxury city for rich Jews.
by Wing
We three spent half an hour on making the decision of going to Jordan, now, tonight. It was 4 or 5 in afternoon, we were talking about Jordan on the roof of our dorms in Tel Aviv, Israel, with a Jordan map from National Geography and a Lonely Planet guide book. Only Judita, my roommate from Lithuania, had been to Jordan before. She is a blond girl, a young writer, an interesting traveller who has many adventure experience in Middle East during the last 4 years. Neither I nor Joe had been to any other country except Israel since we began our MA study in Tel Aviv University--both of us spent all day on our hopeless Hebrew homework. He came from Washington States and I came from Beijing, China.
So, we'll write our travel dairy in turns, I(Wing)--Joe--Judita.
We rushed down the roof and went back to pack quickly. At night, We took No.27 bus at the opposite street of the university to go to old bus station, then waited for the bus to Elat, a small city at the south of Israel, where the Jordan border was. There were many soldiers waiting at the bus station, and we were dragging our bags and hugging our food--pita, rabbit salad, boiled eggs--like refugees. Judita and Joe were talking excitedly while I was sleeping fast from the very beginning. During the 5 hours on bus to Elat, I was still asleep.
It was about 6 in the morning and Elat was so dark and cold. The Red Sea looks like black ink, with orange lights blinking from the other side. We looked for a warm nice cafe for a long time but failed, at last we had to eat our breakfast at the chill beach. A weird guy suddenly appeared, without even looking at Judita or me, he only staring at Joe, excited, and talked to him so warmly. When we finally sit down at a breakfast cafe, Joe said that the guy must be gay. The shopkeeper looked at us angrily--not because we were laughing, but for what we ordered was only the cheapest coffee.
We paid a lot to cross the border and even more for the taxi to Petra. In the middle of the day, finally we were in Petra, the most famous ancient city in Jordan. We stayed in Petra Gate Hostel, 9JD(about $13) per person/night. The room was clean and people were friendly and helpful. We also had private bathroom and free breakfast.
What happened at the border was something I should not forget to mention. I almost failed to pass. "People from China, Romania, Columbia all need visa." The officer said when he gave back my passport. I was a little mad on him. China is not a rich or developed country, but not the same as those two countries at least. However, things turned to a happy way after I showed them my student ID card and told them I really don't know visa is required for Jordan. They took me to the chief officer's office. He was very nice and gave me a visa stamp without asking me any questions. "Welcome to Jordan." He said. Even I myself couldn't believe it.
There were many Arabic taxi drivers waiting at the other side of the border as usual. "They will tell you there is no bus to Aqaba." Judita said," they just want to cheat you to take taxi." She was very right that just after we crossed the border, an Arabic driver came to us:"There is no bus to Aqaba today, you have to take our taxi."
Petra is a totally tourists' place, but I still recommend it strongly. "If you only go to one place in Jordan, you'd go to Petra." That's what the advertisement says. It's a huge area with old city ruins and nature views for people to explore by foot or "taxi"--camels. Those ancient ruins, unlike roman style, are very unique with a heavy atmosphere of religion and mystery. I like the tombs, temples, carvings, huge red rock valley, and the feeling of desert. Everything made me felt that we were in a great adventure story, like Indiana Jones.
At the end of hiking, there were 800 steps up to the top of the hill which was called "sacrifice place" and "the end of the world". When we finally got there, it was late in the afternoon and we were almost only half alive. However, it's quite worth it .We laid down on the big stone of the mountain, pretend to take a nap at "the end of the world"--so close to the sky, so quite and clean.
On our way back, some Bedouin friends invited us for tea and Arabic smoke. They were very warm and hospitalized people. We sat down and talked for a while. I felt so familiar with my experience in Tibet. Bedouins and Tibetans have very similar values. Bedouins say "mountains never meet, friends never apart", and Tibetans say "Money, just paper; alcohol, just water". And Bedouins also say "strong like desert, soft like sand, quiet like wind".
It was deep dark when we said goodbye to them. Moon was shinning brilliantly on the sky while no one except us were walking among the tombs, rocks and temples. The black shadows of big rocks were in some strange shapes that brought a creepy feeling. The valley was deadly quite when suddenly some weird cats rushed towards us and followed us for a long way.
We were terribly tired and I was starving to death. Luckily we were not spoiled kids and finally made our way back to hostel. The Arabic restaurant nearby was wonderful that humus with pita only cost 1JD, and my Arabic BBQ chicken with bread and salad cost 5. I'm happy because I think here is the real Middle East, Tel Aviv is just a luxury city for rich Jews.
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